I just completed this mod, and and thought to make a guide available here.  If you are looking to mod your Hori Real Arcade Pro stick with new artwork, this is a good template to use.  This photoshop template is confirmed working with HRAP3/PS3 version as well as xbox360 version. It was originally developed by someone from Shoryuken Forums and changed by a user there, and now I’ve added visual guides for the button bezels and joystick dust cover if you want to design around those and know where is “safe” I’ve also added some button splashes you can turn off or change the color of if you like.

Download the Template

Tools needed

• X-acto knife and blades (cutting holes)
• 7mm hex driver (remove nuts that hold front plate on)
• Phillips Screwdriver (joystick and back panel)
• Flathead Screwdriver (to help pry out quick disconnects and to screw or unscrew joystick ball)
• Needlenose Pliers (to manipulate washers and nuts in tight places…)

Instructions

• Download above Photoshop file and load it.
• Insert artwork on the bottom layer where it says insert ART here. Move as needed. Images should be large enough to fill the template for best quality.
• Turn off button splashes group if desired, or change colors.
• The dust cover and button bezel guide layers show you how your art will interact with the hardware bezels and dust cover if you want to design for that (as is the case with the splashed) It’s a visual aid.
• Turn off dust cover and bezel guides before printing. Leave lami-label guide on (outline of face).
• What you should have when you are done is your artwork with a border around it in the shape of the HRAP face.  Button holes, covers, etc should all be hidden.
• Save as a .TIF without layers and print at Kinkos on regular laser paper (do not scale or resize to fit) and lami-label the 11×17 sheet.  The actual image area with the cutting outline borders should be 15×9 inches.
• Cut out around the edges so you have a piece that is the shape of the hori top plate but with no holes

• We must isolate the face plate first.  Remove joystick back panel (remove phillips head screws)
• Remove face plate (remove nuts and washers from behind

• Remove buttons.  Quick disconnects will be tough to pull out, use the flathead screwdriver to twist/pry the metal connectors straight up away from microswitch- do not pull wires.  Take a note or make a drawing/photo of what color wires go where.

• Remove joystick from mounting plate (philips head screws).  You can leave wires plugged in.
• You just have a flat metal plate now.

• Remove original label/art from this metal plate by pulling. Peel off backing from lami label and apply new artwork carefully (get it lined up right)
• Cut out holes with x-acto knife from FRONT. I tried cutting from the back, but it’s actually cleaner and easier from the front. Push the knife through the middle of each hole and then cut around the perimeter.  It goes very smoothly, the metal will guide you around the holes- just use a sawing motion and follow the hole edges.  Don’t forget the bolts around the edges.  Trim any overhanging laminate around edges.

• Touch up any white trim paper or scuffs showing from the front with markers that match the colors closely or as close as you can.
• Re-assemble stick (buttons snap back in, quick disconnects push back on microswitch terminals, re-attach screws and bolts) The needlenose pliers can help you get the face plate washers and nuts back in.

Before

After

I’m pretty happy with the way it came out.  The buttons and joystick colors will change when I get my Sanwa parts in.  Joystick will be white, buttons pink and black, and start/select will be white.

Update:  here is the final version

This entry was posted on Sunday, March 8th, 2009 at 1:03 AM and is filed under Design, Games. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.