It’s been 23 years.

Hori HRAP3 With Custom Art

I’m still playing fighting games, just not as much due to a recent addiction to Dragon Age for PC.  I can’t wait for Super Street Fighter 4 though!

A special original audio mix by yours truly.  Only funny if you know about Street Fighter 4.

EDIT: Becuase of the warm critical reception at SRK, I have made an extended, remastered director’s cut of the song.

Sabin ft. Gootecks – Hungry – final release (real talk, I think this is my best work)

Here is the SRK Thread

In the process of practicing Street Fighter 4, which came out for consoles in February, and interacting with the community that plays it I have picked up a lot of new vocab.  I was going to put the definitions, but it’s more interesting without.  You might think fighting games could be spoken about by their fans with simple terms like jumping, punching and kicking.  But you would think wrong.

Like most niche communities who consider themselves elite, the fighting game player base has a lot of obscure terms that are a total mystery to average gamers.  This list doesn’t even include specific game franchise related terms.  These are just the ones that can apply to any fighting game.

Terms you don’t know unless you play a lot of fighting games:

Trading
Buffering
Stuffing
Mashing
Hype
Rage
Punish
Mind Games
Combo
Loop
Infinite
Tick
Kara
Canceling
Cross-up
Mix-up
Safe
Footsies
Frame advantage
Scrub
Whiff
Hit Box
Poke
Trap
Cheese
Rushdown
Runaway
String
Options

Download the Template

Tools needed

• X-acto knife and blades (cutting holes)
• 7mm hex driver (remove nuts that hold front plate on)
• Phillips Screwdriver (joystick and back panel)
• Flathead Screwdriver (to help pry out quick disconnects and to screw or unscrew joystick ball)
• Needlenose Pliers (to manipulate washers and nuts in tight places…)

Instructions

• Download above Photoshop file and load it.
• Insert artwork on the bottom layer where it says insert ART here. Move as needed. Images should be large enough to fill the template for best quality.
• Turn off button splashes group if desired, or change colors.
• The dust cover and button bezel guide layers show you how your art will interact with the hardware bezels and dust cover if you want to design for that (as is the case with the splashed) It’s a visual aid.
• Turn off dust cover and bezel guides before printing. Leave lami-label guide on (outline of face).
• What you should have when you are done is your artwork with a border around it in the shape of the HRAP face.  Button holes, covers, etc should all be hidden.
• Save as a .TIF without layers and print at Kinkos on regular laser paper (do not scale or resize to fit) and lami-label the 11×17 sheet.  The actual image area with the cutting outline borders should be 15×9 inches.
• Cut out around the edges so you have a piece that is the shape of the hori top plate but with no holes

• We must isolate the face plate first.  Remove joystick back panel (remove phillips head screws)
• Remove face plate (remove nuts and washers from behind

• Remove buttons.  Quick disconnects will be tough to pull out, use the flathead screwdriver to twist/pry the metal connectors straight up away from microswitch- do not pull wires.  Take a note or make a drawing/photo of what color wires go where.

• Remove joystick from mounting plate (philips head screws).  You can leave wires plugged in.
• You just have a flat metal plate now.

• Remove original label/art from this metal plate by pulling. Peel off backing from lami label and apply new artwork carefully (get it lined up right)
• Cut out holes with x-acto knife from FRONT. I tried cutting from the back, but it’s actually cleaner and easier from the front. Push the knife through the middle of each hole and then cut around the perimeter.  It goes very smoothly, the metal will guide you around the holes- just use a sawing motion and follow the hole edges.  Don’t forget the bolts around the edges.  Trim any overhanging laminate around edges.

• Touch up any white trim paper or scuffs showing from the front with markers that match the colors closely or as close as you can.
• Re-assemble stick (buttons snap back in, quick disconnects push back on microswitch terminals, re-attach screws and bolts) The needlenose pliers can help you get the face plate washers and nuts back in.

Before

After

I’m pretty happy with the way it came out.  The buttons and joystick colors will change when I get my Sanwa parts in.  Joystick will be white, buttons pink and black, and start/select will be white.

Update:  here is the final version