Truffles makes the final inspection

A project I have been putting off for a long time is finally complete, and it feels good!

We have had 2 rows of seats in our home theater for some time, perhaps over a year.  The view from the back row, however, has been lacking due to both rows being on the floor.  I knew this thing had to be built, but I am not a big home improvement kind of guy and sort of dreaded the actual building.  I did know, however, that I didn’t want to pay a contractor to build it.

To make matters worse, our seats have units between each seat to hold drinks, snacks, etc and so the row is wider than most, making the riser project even more massive.  Each row has a seat, a drink holder unit, a middle seat, another drink holder unit, and then a third seat.

Finally, my wife Teresa and roommate Jared convinced me that it had to be done now or it was never going to get done.  I think they just wanted me to stop complaining about starting the project and finally get it over with.  The final dimension of the top area will be 6 feet and 6 inches by 12 feet and 3 inches.  The height will be about 1 foot (two 5-1/2″ boards stacked, plus plywood and carpet) with a stair.

My previous post Building a 120″ Home Theater Screen (the screen is still phenomenal, by the way) seems to have generated a lot of interest from home theater DIYers, so I am hoping this information will also be useful to people planning out a DIY home theater riser.

Actually, it was fun to build.  First of all, I am the type of person who likes to do everything on a computer, so I decided to use Google Sketchup in order to build a virtual version of my riser first.  Google Sketchup is a free 3d modeling program that is fairly easy to learn and allows for exact dimensions to be used for each piece.  I especially like the “dimension” and “measuring tape” tools which allow you to check dimensions in real time as you model the 3d pieces.

Because I had no experience planning or building a project as large as this, I found the 3d modeling process invaluable.  It gave me the confidence to do the project, because I knew everything would fit together correctly.  If I had tried to calculate all of this out with math and paper I think it could have been a disaster.  If you are a visual person, like me, it does help to see how everything will come together before you actually build it.  Then again, it takes time to learn the 3d program.

If you are planning a similar riser, it might be helpful to look at the full size of the picture above for the pieces and dimensions I used, or download the actual 3d model for Google Sketchup so you can modify it to your own dimensions.  It won’t be exactly what you need, but it should be a nice reference.  I couldn’t find anything like this when I was researching my project.  No matter how many examples and threads I found about building a riser, it was hard to get all of the details.  So I wanted to create this post to help other total newbies.

Download the Google Sketchup Model – Jon’s Home Theater Riser
Download Google Sketchup

I ended up sticking to the plan almost exactly, with one or two changes.  I did not adhere to the tiny measurements (like 9-1/16″ became 9″ in some cases).  I also ended up installing additional 2×4 supports by screwing them sideways into the 2×6 studs where one of the plywood edges did not land perfectly on a stud.

EDIT: I have also decided to mostly fill this thing with insulation after getting feedback from some people at AVS forums.  My friend and I tilted the riser up and added the insulation from below.  We should have added insulation before screwing down the plywood top.

Materials

In the end, here is what I used to build the riser:

3/4 inch OSB ply

• (4) 4×8 sheets – long end cut to 6′6″ (this is the depth of the top of riser)
• plywood piece 2′ 5″  x  1′  for the stair cut from resulting scrap
• one of the sheets for the end of the riser was again cut to 1′ 4 3/16″  (see 3d model pic for dimensions)

Lumber (Note that 2″x6″ lumber is actually 1-1/2″ x 5-1/2″ lumber)

• (24) 6′ 2×6 boards [twelve 12' boards cut in half]  – one is cut again to 3′ 9.5″
• (4) 12′ 2×6 boards  – one is cut to 11′ 1-1/2″
• (4) 9″ sections cut from a 2×6
• (1) 8′ 2×4 cut into pieces for additional OSB ply edge support

Insulation

• 2 rolls of R-30 15″ wide insulation

Misc

• Work gloves (the OSB ply is splintery)
• Simpson strong-tie hurricane straps 3″x6″ rectangle shape
• 7/64 #8 counter sink drill bit
• 3″ screws for 2×6 joints
• 1-5/8″ screws for plywood screw-down
• 1″ wood screws for hurricane straps

Tools

• Circular saw – to cut plywood sheets and some of the 2×6 lumber
• Rubber mallet – to adjust stubborn studs and tap plywood into place
• Power Drill / Driver with phillips-head bit
• Measuring Tape, Carpenter’s Square, Pencils

Helpers

• Wife – vacuuming, plywood holding and measuring detail
• Friend – Screwing, lifting and cutting assistance

Carpet and Pad

• I’m letting a carpet contractor do this :)

Construction

Getting the lumber to the house was an adventure for someone who rarely deals with large pieces of wood, and has hardly ever driven a truck.  Lowe’s turned out to be helpful.  They were able to perform many of the cuts on the wood for us, and when we rented a truck to get the wood over to our house, they didn’t even end up charging us for it because we returned it so quickly (we live 2 minutes from Lowe’s).  All in all, it went smoothly.  Some people don’t have such good luck.  There are not many trucks to go around at many Lowe’s and Home Depot stores, and it can be tricky to grab one when you need it.

Next came the cutting.  Cutting wood when you have never used a circular saw can be a little scary.  A few tips.

• Measure and mark carefully according to your plan.
• Line up the saw’s guide with your marked line.  I practiced a few cuts on scrap to see how it lines up.
• Wear goggles or at least big glasses.  There is going to be a lot of dust and chips flying up, especially with OSB.
• Cut outside or wear earplugs.  The sound is deafening in a closed garage.
• Use stacked 2×6 scraps (or actual horses) to hold up the wood to be cut so that there is clearance from the floor.
• OSB has a stamped side and a rougher side.  The rougher side goes up.  Cut accordingly.
• Try to clamp or at least gently hold down the plywood in some way while cutting.  I had helpers keep it stable on the supports.
• Don’t try to cut all the way through a 2×6 from one side.  This resulted in violent and dangerous jerking of the saw.  Cut halfway through, then the other half from the other side.  Plywood seems to be OK to cut from one side all the way through.

This piece will be the right-top, over the single stair.  I marked and cut according to the 3d model plan.

We also cut the 2×6 boards that were still not the right length.  Thanks to Eric for lending me the saw!

After all of that work, we needed to refuel.  I made surprisingly great cheesesteaks (recipe to come) and we devoured them.

We framed out a box to be the base of the riser using 12 foot and 6 foot boards, the counter sink drill bit (for pilot holes) and 3″ screws.  The holes are drilled 3/4″ in from the 4 corners of one side of each 12 foot board.  The screws are screwed through the holes and into the 6 foot boards, making a box.

We added studs every 16″ on center.  Some people do 12″ spacing, others try 18″.  We are using a thick and sturdy 3/4″ OSB top, so 16″ should be enough support.

It was a little bit confusing at first to measure the stud pacing.  As I have often said, I am not a carpenter so I didn’t really know what I was doing.  It seems the correct way is to measure from the end (outside edge) in 16″ and then mark.  That is the center of your first stud.  Then measure 16″ from that mark, and continue.  Measuring this way and using 12′ boards for the long sides resulted in an even distribution of studs.  I knew this would happen because of the 3d model.  I’m sure other tactics, like math, could work.  But I am a visual person.

Then I realized I needed to install an additional stud for the back of the stair, but the existing stud was in the way.  So we removed a stud and moved it up.  We added stair support/framing with 9″ 2×6 boards.

After replacing the stud that was moved in the previous step, we added the second layer using the first layer as a guide.  The following picture shows the stair ply in place, we were just testing the fit.  Looks good!

Here’s a detail of the stair support/frame.  The plywood installed over this is 1′ deep and also overhangs a bit to make a carpeted lip.

We attached the two layers together with hurricane straps and 1″ wood screws.  The following picture shows a few of them in place, but we used them all around and on various sides of the studs, etc.  Make sure to install some on the frame sides as well.  I placed them all on inside surfaces, as I didn’t want to feel anything under the carpeting.  Test for any gaps or noises when you step down on the top layer.  If you hear anything, put weight on it and fasten tightly with straps.

EDIT: at this point, I should have added 6′ lengths of R-30 insulation inside the open spaces.  I later added this from below, which was a pain.

We attached the plywood with 1-5/8″ screws into the studs/frame every 10″ or so.  Also making sure the overhang was as close to 1-1/2″ around the outside as possible.  This will create a carpeted lip around the edges of the riser and the stair.  We might install rope lighting underneath this lip in the future.  Additional 2×4 support was installed against some of the studs, flush to the plywood bottom, as not all of the plywood edges lined up with a stud nicely.

The wife’s priority was vacuuming in between each step.

A good tip is to place the plywood where you want it to be, but shifted vertically a bit so you can see where the studs are and mark the edge of the ply.  Then you can draw lines across for screwing purposes and re-seat the plywood in its final location.  Otherwise it’s impossible to tell where the studs are underneath the ply.

And, done!  A contractor is coming to measure and install carpeting to match the existing carpet floor.  We tested the chairs on the un-carpeted riser to see how they fit and feel at the raised height.  Everything checks out, we love it!  The front row of chairs will be moved back toward the front of the riser.

Regrets

Some of the wood is a little warped or has small gaps here and there.  I think carpeting/filler will hide it.  I wish I had taken just a little bit more time to ensure the wood and the studs were straight and square.  Some of the corners where the 2×6s come together have imperfect alignment of the top board and so some small ledges can be seen on two of the corners.  The plywood top measurement was very close, but one of the sides along the left-back ended up being about 1/4 inch short. The plywood did not always land its edge on a stud, so I had to improvise and install extra 2×4s for support along that edge where needed.

I also went a little crazy with the 3d model dimensions.  In reality I simplified some of the cutting (I did not try to measure 1/16″ for the small stair braces for example).  So, next time I would keep the plan a little bit simpler if possible.

All of that being said, the finished product looks great, feels solid as a rock and I look forward to posting final carpeted pictures soon.

Update: Carpet is finished.  Pics here.

Man, just saw this today and it makes me nostalgic.  Tokyo kaiten sushi, 2009.  Photo from our trip last year by Sarah Chang (my sister-in-law).

Question: How clean is the new noise reduction in Adobe Lightroom 3?

Answer: Really, really clean.

(click each image to see full size versions)

It’s been 23 years.